Though he was raised on the West Coast, Derek Lam‘s fashion ascent is a very New York story.
After graduating from Parsons School of Design, he cut his teeth working for Michael Kors. In 2003, he launched his own label, winning a CFDA award in 2005. Season after season, he continues to secure his place at the forefront of New York fashion.
And while his signature pieces—delicately flowing frocks and crisp, structured silhouettes—continue to define his aesthetic, it’s clear he’s poised to evolve with the times. His recently launched collection for eBay and his upcoming diffusion line signal the imminent growth of his empire, but his highly coveted ready-to-wear collection is what keeps us hooked, season after season.
Below, Mr. Lam chats with Barneys New York about his latest collection, Tilda Swinton, and how he designs for the decisive New York woman.
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Barneys New York: Tell us a little about the thinking behind your Fall 2011 collection.
Derek Lam: I was thinking of uniforms. I like the idea that men have this everyday uniform, which is the suit. They can go through life and just get to work and do what they need to do. I wasn’t going to do business suits [for women], but I was thinking about when we all anticipated going back to school, and the idea of getting new fall clothing. So it was kind of a play on the collegiate uniform.
BNY: How do you think you’ve evolved as a designer since starting your label in 2003?
DL: I started off really thinking about atmosphere and doing something romantic, something that was a little cinematic. What I’ve found over the last few seasons is that I really don’t want to give up that side of what I design, but I also think about, “Okay, how do we live in now? What can I design that’s relevant beyond just the fantasy? “
BNY: So how has the reality of the New York woman informed your designs?
DL: I think that New Yorkers are so busy, and when they think about fashion, they’re very no-nonsense. They go for what they love, and they want to be multi-dimensional in their wardrobe. In New York, women are very decisive.
BNY: Is it daunting to design for the decisive woman? She sounds hard to please.
DL: Well, she’s decisive because she’s busy, and she has compartments in her life that she needs to address. I try to create clothing that works into that mentality, where it’s not about special occasion clothing. It’s part of her wardrobe, part of her personal style. Even when I present a collection, I’m much more driven by thinking of individual items. What does a woman want that’s new in her pant wardrobe? What’s the new jacket?
BNY: Any particularly decisive women that you find inspiring?
DL: For me, the ideal who represents how we live now is Tilda Swinton. She’s super attractive and ethereal, but she doesn’t look like she labors over [her style]. I find her very appealing—she looks like she’s from this moment.
BNY: Speaking of this moment, many consider you to be one of today’s quintessential New York designers. What does that mean to you?
DL: In New York today, each of my peers has a unique kind of vision. It’s not that old-school thing, like with Calvin, Donna, Ralph—everyone was doing minimalism and go-to-work clothes. That was a very American point of view back then, and now it’s much more individual. It really comes from a personal vision. That’s what’s amazing about New York: it’s a place where so many different ideas are relevant at the same time.
BNY: Are there any emerging themes that you think might unify the current wave of New York designers?
DL: I think there is an overriding theme in classic American design that form follows function. And we have such a wealth of American iconography to inspire us each season. I’ve been inspired by the West, I’ve been inspired by California, so there is definitely an American culture that I tap into to represent what American design is about.
BNY: If you had to swap your current moment to design in another time and place, when and where would it be?
DL: Maybe the 1920s, working in Paris. It was just such a revolutionary time in fashion and how fashion reflected a new modern person. To be able to live in the moment that [Coco] Chanel lived would be incredible.